How To Sew Lapped Zipper

Lapped zippers give your project a clean and professional look. If done right, there will be only one line of stitches seen from the right side.

Follow my instruction carefully to achieve the best-looking lapped zipper.

What you need to prepare for this job is zipper, a zipper foot, and a sewing machine.

Finished lapped zipper

There is no need to use an advanced model or anything. I usually make use of my best starter sewing machine and everything goes fine. If you want a machine like mine, see here: to find out.

Locate the place where the zipper will go open when you are done and press it. After that, fold the seam allowance back.

Unzip the zipper partially and line the teeth on the left with the edge you fold earlier and leave a small gap in between. To hold the zipper in place, either baste or pin and follow the edge.

The lap that appears in the name of this method is the right side of the opening.

I usually maintain a distance of 3/8” or ½” from the edge to the stitch line. Feel free to adjust but make sure that when you sew, the needle catches both the tape and the garment.

Attach the zipper foot on and make sure it is on the left side of the needle. Start sewing at the top of the zipper and sew down the folded edge. Use the side of the foot as the guide and sew along.

When you reach the middle of the zipper, stop, lower the needle down the fabric, and lift the presser foot up.

Pull the zipper up and then put the presser foot back to its former position.

Keep sewing until you meet the end of the left side. Don’t go all the way to the end, you want to stop just a little bit before that.

The zipper foot I use comes with my sewing machine. If you usually make garments, a foot like that will come in handy. In case you haen’t found a machine to start sewing yet, you might want to read these Tips For Choosing The Best First Sewing Machine To Start Your Dressmaking Journey. Hope you will find yours there.

A zipper foot

Leave the needle in the fabric and turn the project a 90-degree angle. Lower the foot and sew through the bottom of the zipper. If you feel hard to control the project, advance it by hand.

When you reach the point that is 3/8” – ½” from the opening, make sure the needle still in the project and turn square again. Lower the foot.

Line the other edge of the fabric with the opening and ensure that it covers the teeth of the zipper. You might want it to slightly overlapping the first stitch line. Use pins to hold if you feel needed.

Sew and follow the guideline and stop at about an inch from the end.

When the fabric covers the head of the zipper, pins to hold the end of the zipper. If you baste instead of the pin in the first place, there is no need to do this step. Get the head of the zipper out of your way and remember, only lift the presser foot when the needle is in the fabric.

Since you are here, I just found out about an excellent article on Complete Guide To Best Computerized Sewing Machine For Beginners And Home Use. I leave it here for those who have not yet picked a suitable machine yet.

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FirstName Bella
LastName Hood
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Topic revision: r3 - 07 Jan 2019, BellaHood
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